Donkey City

Lamu is so adorable, like something out of Arabian Nights. Time seems to have left it behind, except for the telephone lines and tv satellites. One bar shows movies every night at 7pm. They have an honest to god big screen. "Collateral" with Tom Cruise is showing while we're there but we don't see it. Another theater in town has Ladies Only nights for the Muslim women. But what makes Lamu seem timeless is the use of donkeys. Practically everybody owns one. Care must be taken when walking the narrow streets for donkeys come from any direction, usually quickly, carrying large loads, or guys riding side saddle. When I'm walking through town Saturday morning, a man comes through speaking through a loud speaker. I hear him say "punda," which means donkey and when I ask what he's said, I'm told the man is announcing that anyone caught riding a donkey on the main road through town will be jailed and fined. They're trying to crack down on the young men who race their donkeys through the streets. Ed was almost knocked down by laden donkey when their paths crossed at an intersection. The donkeys will bray very loudly at all hours. Sometimes it sounds like a woman screaming, which can be eerie. Add to the braying 20 something muezzins calling Muslims to pray on every block and Lamu can get quite noisy at times. On Lamu's waterfront sits an organization devoted to the donkeys. It's the Donkey Sanctuary, which provides free veterinary care for all donkeys. And they take in old donkeys too frail to work, giving them refuge. It's nice to know donkeys have a place to go for care. I see cows and goats limping on the streets of Kisumu. It's hard to watch as their herder keeps going, never slowing. They know the animal will keep up with the group even though it is in pain. There is no other way to get food for the animal without herding it through the streets. But it's hard to watch as the cows and goats limp along, hurrying to catch up with the others. I'm so glad the hard-working donkeys of Lamu are cared for!