Monday, February 14, 2005

Nairobi, Kenya

As our plane banks east toward Nairobi, to the south stands Kilimanjaro, my old friend. From Kenya, Kili reveals a deeper saddle between its two peaks than it does from the Tanzanian side. The glaciers stand out brilliantly and I feel as though I'm returning home. On the flight with me are Ian, Tom and Heidi from The Netherlands and Hilary from the UK. We spend this week at the Methodist Guest House in Nairobi, a 20-minute walk from a busy commercial center.

The Rough Guide to Kenya reports Nairobi is the largest city in East Africa as well as "the youngest, the most modern, the fastest growing and, at 1700 meters, the highest." Nairobi's genesis was unplanned. In 1899, the British were building a railroad from Mombasa, on the coast, to Kampala, the capital of Uganda. When they reached the steep slopes leading into the Rift Valley, they stopped to allow engineers to determine their next move. This "camp" became Nairobi, which celebrated its 100th anniversary in 1999.

Matato rides (mini-van buses) to the Yaya center, a mall, cost 20 Kenyan shillings (Ksh). Currently, the U.S. dollar is valued at 75 Ksh. The matatos are renegades on the busy streets. There's usually a young man with his head (or body) out of the window or open door, calling out to people to jump on. Matatoes start moving before the last person has sat down, so it's a common sight to see matatos fly by with a butt hanging out the open door.

At this altitude, the weather is perfect night and day, though the equatorial sun can do quick damage to exposed skin. Security guards are everywhere. They must open the gate for us to enter and leave the Methodist center. They sit at the entrace of the resident hall at the center, dressed in official green uniforms complete with sticks. Guards at the Yaya Center are posted at all entrances and carry automatic rifles. Even The Cellar, a restaurant/bar one block from the Methodist, has security guards at the gate. Crime is high in Nairobi, especially muggings, so we are cautioned not to carry valuables such as our passports, jewelry or money.

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